Sustainability in fashion isn’t just a trend—it’s a necessity. As we continue to rethink our consumption habits, second-hand shopping is proving to be one of the most impactful ways to reduce waste, lower carbon emissions, and embrace a more circular economy. In this guest post, Kristina Segerqvist, a passionate advocate for second-hand fashion and a part-time colour analysis consultant, shares her insights into Finland’s thriving second-hand market. From beautifully curated thrift stores to the rise of premium resale platforms, Kristina explores how second-hand shopping has evolved—and why it should be our first choice when looking to refresh our wardrobes.
A circular economy is the unavoidable next step in sustainable development. In Finland today, the average person buys 38 new pieces of clothing annually, spending approximately €800 (£600 GBP). In the UK, fashion consumption, measured by carbon emissions per capita, is slightly higher.
Finnish authors Sissi Penttilä and Aku Varamäki have calculated that a sustainable amount of new clothing would be just seven new pieces per year. This figure is based on the average carbon emissions per new item of clothing. Shoes are included in this calculation, but socks, underwear, and second-hand purchases are excluded.
Currently, the average price per garment in Finland is approximately £16, based on the annual budget of £600 per person. If this same budget were used to purchase a maximum of seven new garments per year, the average spend per item could increase to £85. This shift would significantly enhance the quality of what we wear.
I have been interested in second-hand shopping since my teenage years. Waking up early on weekend mornings to visit flea markets was one of my favourite activities! At that time, flea markets catered mainly to those with a taste for less mainstream styles, those who enjoyed sewing and altering their clothes, and vintage enthusiasts.
Over the past 5-10 years, however, the second-hand market in Finland has evolved to appeal to a much wider audience. Many beautifully curated second-hand shops have emerged, boasting attractive interiors and offering cafés with chia puddings, avocado sandwiches, and speciality coffee drinks.
One of the pioneers in Finland is Noora Hautakangas, a former Miss Finland, who created the concept of Relove second-hand shops and cafés. There are now four Relove stores in the Helsinki area, including one at Helsinki-Vantaa International Airport, and two in Tampere. Relove also operates an online store with a premium selection of clothes and accessories.
Inspired by the growing demand for quality second-hand items, many other cosy second-hand shops have opened in recent years. Even traditional charity shops, such as Red Cross stores and UFF/Humana, have started to curate their selections more thoughtfully.
These trendy, reasonably priced second-hand stores have made it easier for individuals, including those who require business wear, to embrace second-hand consumption. Labels such as Max Mara, Boss and Ralph Lauren are often available in excellent condition at reasonable prices. Finnish brands like Marimekko have even launched their own second-hand collections and stores.
Beyond physical stores, local and international online platforms have made second-hand fashion more accessible to those who dislike in-person shopping or live outside major cities. Many of these platforms offer alert systems for specific items, further streamlining the experience.
As a result, Finnish people are now among Europe’s most frequent second-hand shoppers, alongside the Polish. However, there is still much to be done, particularly in the men’s market. Men’s shopping behaviour differs significantly, and there is a more limited supply of second-hand menswear. That said, men’s fashion is often timeless, high-quality, and made from durable materials, which presents a great opportunity for growth.
While buying second-hand is not without challenges—such as the carbon emissions associated with international deliveries and concerns about perpetuating shopping addictions—it remains a valuable practice. Local second-hand shopping supports the circular economy and creates jobs, as the business is labour-intensive. Additionally, altering second-hand finds through local seamstresses or cobblers helps sustain local economies and encourages us to take better care of what we already own.
When we need something new, we should consider second-hand as our primary option. While it may take more time to find exactly what we are looking for, the planet will thank us. When buying new, we should prioritise high-quality, long-lasting brands and support local sustainable companies. Such products retain their value, making them easier to resell in the future.
A massive thank you to the lovely Kristina for her brilliant guest-post. Follow her on Instagram @vaatekaapin_kulmakivet.
Sources:
Sissi Penttilä & Aku Varamäki: Planetaarinen vaatekaappi, 2024 ("Planetary Wardrobe," not translated)
Hot or Cool Institute: Unfit, Unfair, Unfashionable: Resizing Fashion for a Fair Consumption Space, 2022.
Instagram accounts: @planetaarinenvaatekaappi (Aku Varamäki) and @thuhtamaki (Timo Huhtamäki, EU’s Climate Ambassador and owner of Emmy Second Hand).
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